Lima the Grey, Lima the Sad

Introduction to Lima

Prior to arriving in Lima, I read the first selections of The Lima Reader and The Lettered City by Angel Ramos. In the selections from the Lima Reader, we covered many topics such as the development of Lima and how Lima has strong foundational ties to the indigenous populations surrounding it, the conditions of Lima in the early development period where the arid climate proved to cause some difficulties with agricultural development and others.

What I find particularly interesting are the divergent opinions that the authors provide about their experience in Lima. While I acknowledge that many of these accounts were based on different periods, the dichotomy presented is nevertheless striking which speaks to the drastic transformations that the city experienced. For example, Alexander Humbolt (1767-1836), a Prussian geographer, naturalist and mining engineer makes his disappointment with Lima very clear when he describes the shabby cultural life and dispels many of the supposed myths he heard about the elegance and luxury of the city.  Humbolt’s disdain for the governmental operations and neglect for the city resembles Herman Melville’s account of Lima where Melville describes Lima as being earthquake-scarred, and the “strangest, saddest city thou can’st see” (pg.84).

The “white veil” of Lima in the evening (caused by the moist fog/ocean mist from the Humboldt current).

Humbolt’s and Melville’s account of the city contrasts Galvez’ enthusiasm for the city. José Gálvez (1885-1997), writes about the significant changes that occurred at the end of the 19th century in Lima due to the modernization that occurred from the newly found economic prosperity and political stability. Galvez praises the modernization that occurred and details the disappearance of animosity between students and teachers, while describing the emergence of organized sports among the upper class, the improvement in political order, and decreased hostility toward outsiders. 

After reading about Galvez’ description of Lima, one may be hopeful for present-day Lima. Angel Ramas, however, provides an alternative account that describes the chaos that underlies Lima in their book The Lettered City.  Rama discusses how Lima attempted to project an image of orderliness and cultural refinement, yet beneath this facade lay a reality of social chaos. Rama describes how the first settlers of Latin America had an idealized vision of how the cities would be constructed. They sought to impose a hierarchical discipline when they found this new land because the order they desired was not able to be implemented in old Europe. Part of the orderly ideal was the checkerboard grid for the city landscape (which Vancouver has also used in their urban planning!). Rama discusses how the ideal of orderliness was not compatible with the pitfalls of reality and ordinary life despite the use of a specialized group and various instruments to maintain order. When I was walking on the streets of Lima these past two days, I found that remnants of orderliness persist with the clean architectural designs of the houses in San Isidro.

Buildings and Streets in San Isidro

However, this order is clearly juxtaposed with the chaos of the city traffic where three-lane roads somehow become lined with 4-5 car lines with numerous taxis weaving in between. Overall, Rama’s account in the Lettered City helps reconcile the confusing dichotomy between the order and chaos that is present-day Lima.