Week 3: Goodbye Cusco, hello Pisac!
My last few days in Cusco were calm yet eventful. Notable encounters were when a group of us went up to Aura Restaurant and stumbled upon a street of vendors who were travellers selling their handmade products. I wasn’t planning on getting anything but this one Quechua lady was very persistent and showed me a variety of the belts she weaved. Whether they were ALL handmade or not is debatable but I wound up buying a belt. She first demonstrated the weaving process and described the different types of belts and the dyes that were used. It was fascinating watching her weave and finish up the belt that I chose for myself. It was initially difficult for me to find a belt with a pattern I liked because I am partial to more muted colours and Incan colours and patterns are bold and bright. It was very nice speaking with the Quechua lady despite our back and forth with the price, but in the end, she was very happy with her sale and I am happy with my 35 sol belt.
I spoke to many of the street vendors during my break from reading and I was very surprised to find out that many of them were travelling for several months and years. I spoke to this one man from France who was making jewelry. He was telling me about how he learned how to make jewelry during his travels from other travellers he met along the way. I wasn’t aware how communal the solo travelling community was. It was heartwarming to hear how they assist and provide for each other. I ended up buying a pair of earrings from the gentleman, although it was difficult to find a pair that was suitable since most of the metal used was “alpaca” which is a mix of nickel and some other metals. Naming a cheaper metal “alpaca” seems like an attempt to increase the marketing appeal, but whatever.
First Days in Pisac
The first night we arrived I was relieved to discover that Pisac was quiet because the noise of Cusco was becoming very overwhelming. The first night we did not find a soul on the street (except for these local teenagers who stopped to look at us). The next night after class, however, Cissy and I stumbled upon a large crowd of people dancing in the main square with a live band playing music. We quickly joined one of the dancing circles and the ladies were extremely welcoming and friendly. Adam, Ana, and Anje joined soon after. They offered us drinks and even told the band to dedicate a song to the “Canadian girls”. It was an entertaining night and I am pleasantly surprised by how inviting Peruvians are.
Today, was a free day and a group of us spontaneously went to Chincero, Urabamba, Moray, and the salt mines in Maras. The Inca terraces at Chincero and Moray were very impressive. I was, however, surprised to see parts of the field at Chincero were littered with confetti from a wedding that was taking place at the same time. I would have thought the ruins would have been more rigidly preserved. I was then informed that many of the ruins were reconstructed, which adds to the theme of “making indigeneity” since we are reimagining what the area may have looked like.
The highlight of the day was at the Centre of Textiles near Chincero where we learned about the weaving process from start to finish and the different natural materials that the Incans used to dye the fibers. While the artisanal display was highly informative, the most enjoyable part of the day was when the children of the organizers taught a group of us how to use and play with a Zumballyu. We failed horribly (except for Steven), but the kids, Angelo and his sister Mikaela were very supportive and repeatedly encouraged us to try again. When we were leaving, Angelo gave Cissy and me one of his Zumballyus. Overall, I am incredibly touched by the kindness and generosity of many Peruvians that I’ve met and am determined how to use a Zumballyu properly! I’ll catch you all in the main square while I’m spinning my Zumballyu!
"Overall, I am incredibly touched by the kindness and generosity of many Peruvians." So true! I can say that I feel at home in this country. They are very warm people, and they always try to make us feel good with small details. I understand why many try to stay here.
Following on from Morgan's question: have your Zumballyu skills improved?
Hey Emily,
You really got in there! I also encountered a vendor who sold "alpaca" metal, but his tone was much more cautionary. Apparently it's common to find sellers in the plaza de armas in Cusco who sell alpaca jewelry as if it was silver! They take advantage of the yellow lighting to do this! It's nice that you found an honest person who told you what it was regardless of the reduction of value. Personally I still think alpaca jewelry is cool.
Gabriel